Ilwempe

Well here I am an alien a legal alien I'm an Australian in New York Got here last night and got to bed at 2am Spain time so taking it slowly today. After landing it took another 2 hours to get out of airport.  Security were nice though.  He asked me when I was leaving America and I said the 10th and he said no you're not it's the 7th. (I think I had to put that in my ESTA application). I complimented him on knowing more about my life than I did.  He laughed.  I ordered  coffee at a cafe in Brooklyn (as you do) and said gracias when they gave me the goods. They don't sell rio tinto here either.   It seems you can only get it in Australia. We should make more of that on our tourist brochures. ( the coffee was shit) I haven't yet adjusted but I think it's the kind of place that will adjust me even if I don't want it.   Brooklyn is a sort of newtown (except there's probably 20 Newtowns here) but more grungy . Those backstreet movie scenes have lo...

I walked a couple of kms out of town with Neil to say goodbye before he went on and I went back. My last yellow arrow of the trip gave me a very clear message.   GRATITUDE Even having spent such a short time (in Camino terms) with Neil something resonates with me of the power of the pilgrim process.  The simple act of walking step after step for long periods of time places you in a vulnerable and attentive space.  A space that I think facilitates listening. Maybe there's nothing more important for us bods socialised by western concepts of success, knowledge and conquest. Providing spaces to listen to life. Letting life teach us. Listening more, controlling less. The photo below shows Neil setting off on a huge double stage.  For him now it's an issue of time and distance.  My heart goes with him as does my gratitude for the opportunity to spend this time with him doing something that has become so important and foundational to him and his life journey. Its ...

This is my last day on the Camino with Neil.  I've been with him (and Sarah for two days in Avila) for 11 days and tomorrow we go in different directions. I'll reflect on that more later but it's a poignant moment for me as we set off from Granja. The sun is out and all looks fine.  The rhythm of the day is exquisite.  The yellow arrow is the traditional way that the Camino paths are marked. Done over years informally by fellow travelers to make clear the directions to walk.   People only walk in one direction to Santiago de Compostela where legend has it that St James bones are buried.  All the many paths lead there. In recent times bureaucrats have decided that more swanky signs are required and have been removing the random arrows to tidy the place up I suppose. This is troubling to Neil and I totally get it.  When you are walking there are times when the way forward is unclear.  At times this leads to taking wrong directions. This happened to ...

Leave Montamarta and immediately walk across a big lake that may well be water supply for Zamora. Just as we walk across this amazing flock of birds perform  a fly past to welcome the day.  The sun comes out to highlight this cute little building.  The little moments that fill a day. Walking is a simple process and in this context walking is the constant.  What happens around you is out of your control.  Could be great or it might be plain.  It's all part of the life of a place as you happen past.  An amazing experience.  Happen upon the walls of an old citadel.  It seems all that is left are the remains of the walls.  Pass this beautiful wetland. Quite surreal.  Always beautiful flowers adorning the way.  GRATEFULNESS My body has returned to some semblance of health.  25km went by without much fuss. The way the body heals overnight is nothing short of remarkable.  You become very aware of your body doing this. 

This was a short day with only 19kms. It's just what I needed as the previous two days were over 35kms and that had taken its toll on my legs.  The legs are going pretty well really but a short day was what I needed. I did a bit of a dummy spit in Zamora. Neil says the Camino exposes your every weakness and it gets everyone at some stage.  Yesterday was my day.  I was buggered, frustrated about this form I was struggling with for entrance into America. It's funny that when your resilience is used up then everything becomes too hard.  I'm also struggling with this broken hand which means everything takes longer than I want it to.  The whole thing was humbling. This was the most uneventful walk of the trip through large fields to a small town 20kms from Zamora.  Perhaps the highlight was being Uli a fellow Peregrino Neil had walked with back s month earlier at the beginning of his Camino de Levante. People on the same route met st times then separate only to ...

As mentioned in the journey blog Siete Iglesias is a town where we didn't find too many people around.  I noted the impact of this on some of the doors in the town. Gaps at the top of the door coupled letting drafts in plus a makeshift design.  This one is finished with metal in the corners and hasn't been painted for awhile.  Again needs a paint and some work on the locks This one is definitely in need of a paint and a better lock.  I'm not sure what they were thinking here as they overdid the gap filler. Why paint the door and not the wall Perhaps the lintel needs some work This needs a good paint Perhaps too many locks here.  Imagine the keyring  Needs a paint as well as the whole building

We leave the wonderful town of Toro and head for Neil's stage 3 end at Zamora Neil on the bridge as we cross the mighty Duero river with Toro in background. Long first stage but nice to spend time walking along the river.  Sometimes track is more a suggestion.  Like, a tractor driver through here in 2012 so should be ok. Dead fox in the middle of the road.  This is irrigation country as its close to the river.  Lots of canals everywhere.  We actually found Eeyores house. Eeyore wasn't too be found.  I understand he's feeling a bit down.  Finally the bridge into Zamora. It's been a tough day for me.  36kms pushed my knees I've grown very fond of this symbol which is the symbol for the peregrino paths to Santiago de Compostela Zamora is a stunning town.  Looks pretty wealthy.  They like to get the plane trees to link together to make shade structure in the squares. Zamora street I have taken 26 photos of this god ugly head trying to get my...